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NYC Trip - 2009
Well, it’s been a year and it’s time for another trip. This year we are staying broadside, but travelling to the other side of the country… to NYC! That’s right, we’re off to Manhattan, the Big Apple. Leaving tomorrow at 3am to get to the airport parking at 4:30am so we can be at the airport at 5am for a 6:35am flight on Delta. So that’s it for now. Need to get some sleep.
Add comment Finally got the Italy pictures uploaded. Over 1000 and a few video clips. They are grouped by City or event. You can access them here: http://picasaweb.google.com/john.shull
For our friends who joined us there (an anyone else) you can download the ones you want. Just find the link on the album you opened.
Ciao !!
p.s. we’ll backfill the history of the trip as time goes forward. Need to catch up on a few other things first.
Got back home late Wednesday, April 16th. We’re draggin’ ! Need sleep. Started our journey at 3am (wake-up) in Venice to catch the 4:08 water taxi boat to the bus terminal then to the airport for a 6:25AM flight (that took off at about 7am). Laid over in Amsterdam again, then off to Seattle.
Today, still catching up with emails, phone calls, and such. Will upload pictures from the rest of our trip. It’s great to review them.
We have had snow here all morning. Have about 3-4 inches. Crazy isn’t it?
[this is an email I sent to family when we were unable to post on this blog]
Greetings from the Tuscany Villa !!
Now this is the jewel of the trip. There is time to relax without the tourist schedule that can wear a traveler out. If you will remember the great big doors we took photos of in Rome and Florence, I can take you inside one of them now. For that is exactly the way of the Villa. A rather non-descript set of doors not unlike many of the others on the street. But once inside… man-o-man !! A huge dwelling of incomparable charm and comfort. One immediately feels right at home. There is something about the age of a place, that when counted in centuries, is simply not available to anyone currently living in the United States. We have no structures that were built in the 1300s.
Laurel & I are staying in the room called Garnaio. It was used to store olives, vegetables, and fruit prior to processing. Remember, this building used to be an olive pressing mill.
Okay, that’s it for now. I will post below the writings of the history from the current owner (an attorney in Seattle). We are using her dial up laptop, so cannot upload pictures just yet. Ciao!
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Villa Maddalena
The “Villa” is actually a compilation and melding of several structures from different eras. I will try to describe what I have been able to cobble together about this history.
When Signora Guazzi passed away in 1995, she bequeathed her residence and those of her long-time employees, Gigliola and Lisa, to her 6 nieces and nephews ~ 4 apartments, cantina spaces, garages, store rooms. The heirs were not quick to decide among themselves what they wanted to do with their inheritance. It seems that they apportioned the square footage equally among themselves and then put together the square footage of the 3 heirs who wanted to sell and offered that for sale. We became aware of it through my friend in the village, a painter, who had exhibited her work in one of the street-level spaces.
We toured it and peered into the neighboring buildings, which were not for sale. After a couple of months of working with the floor plans we declined to purchase, not being able to make the floor to floor elevations work relating to the garden, using the spaces well and working around Gigliola and Lisa. One has the right to occupy her apartment for life and the other has a long-standing low rent agreement. Displacing them was, for us, not an option.
A couple of weeks later, with nothing to lose by asking we asked to buy the other portion of the inheritance ~ only one apartment and all the miscellaneous spaces. They accepted our offer and we purchased with you now see, never having actually been into well over half of it.
What became Villa Maddalena in 2002 was actually 3 separate buildings or portions of buildings.
A ’slice’ of the house next door to the west. This house appears on a village map dated in 1225, so it was built sometime before that date. There are no buildings shown between this building and Mannuccio’s buildings to the east. This was a ’slice’ of a ‘fine house’ with terrazzo floors and frescoed rooms with coved plaster ceilings.
The main house, the stone building that is on the street has floors in the upstairs that have a chinaprese (sp?) finish. This was popular in the 1500’s. It involved following a Florentine style of decorating, this fad created a glistening, seamless floor finished in a Chinese red. The handmade terra cotta floor tiles which could have been laid a hundred years earlier were skim-coated with a fine cement-like material to hide all the joints. This was then stained with the deep red. It was then heavily waxed and continuously waxed and buffed to create the desired luster. This gives the hint as to when this house was built. It was a ‘fine house’ with frescoed walls, terra cotta stuffe (wood-burning heating stoves in each room) and details in the masonry at the roof edge typical of finer houses. The Madonna, a very large ceramic of the Holy Family, is mounted in a special brick niche in the front wall. This was made in San Quirico d’Orcia at a fornace which closed in 1678. The Guazzi family added their coat of arms in 1855, above the Madonna.
The living spaces of this ‘fine house’ were all on the second floor, along the north wall, overlooking the village street. The wall of the main hallway through which Granaio, Maddalena, the hallway to Giardino and Fresco, was the south wall of the house. The niche in the stairway and the doorway to the Giardino/Fresco hallway were open to the south, together with one other that is buried in the wall where the stair goes to the Girasole. So all spaces had windows – the stairs and hall and every bedroom. The garden was a combination farm yard and kitchen garden.
The ground floor was used for carriages, food storage (wine, cheeses, apples, oil, etc.). The cantina and kitchen were areas for the horses and a cow or two. The chicken and rabbit houses were in the garden in 2002. The Commune allowed their ‘volumes’ to be combined and that, together with the tool sheds was enough space to apply for the construction of the tettoio. (the tool sheds yielded all of the floor tiles for all the bathroom – some dating back to the middle 1800’s!!)
In approximately 1710 the ‘new addition’ was built. This was used, until 1967 as an agricultural building and olive mill. The stones are in the garden and the original fitting for the millstone is still in the arch in the dining room. The stones and the olive oil jar that pours water into the open cistern were all found buried under the old barn. This rudimentary shelter was built without mortar and stood where the limonaia now stands. When the barn was dismantled and the floor excavated the Brandini, the father and sons who did all the work on the house, discovered the jar in 3 pieces, together with all the stones. Over the years the cantina and kitchen areas were used for the village forge, the flues were still in place when I bought the house. Next to the refrigerator you can still see the accumulation from the bellows. The entry hall was, at one time a car repair shop, as we see the ‘pit’ still in the floor under the rug.
The upper floor was used for agricultural storage ~ granaio. In 2002 the only way to get into the Granaio and Maddalena spaces was up a ladder through a hatch in the ceiling. At some point in the past the area of the Fresco and Giardino bathrooms, the Giardino bedroom, spaces in the 1710 addition, were incorporated into the apartment in the building to the south, using a long hallway. When this was done, perhaps in the late 1800’s the ceiling of what was now the living room was rebuilt with a system of iron I-beams, into which arches of brick were built. You can see this style in many buildings to this day. The arches were filled, from above with clay, tightly packed. Over this the terrazzo floor tiles were laid in the rooms above. When the work was begun in 2002 the clay had begun to break down. Rather than remove the clay, replace with concrete and relay the tiles, we opted to restore the original chestnut beam ceiling, which raised the ceiling height of the original height. This is also, indirectly, the reason that the windows in the Giardino bedroom are taller and more slender than others in the house. The Commune architect allowed the highest and lowest header and sill to be used for the new windows.
As I got acquainted with the house, its history, its spaces, its sunlight, its faces in the seasons, bringing it together to create the Villa flowed. It was not a struggle. So many things you see were ‘given’ by the buildings that make up the house ~ cues if you can see them in the sizes of rooms, the heights of ceilings, the way that existing spaces can be crafted to meet new needs. Infusing into this old architecture the systems that give it comfort was a challenge but the hands of knowledgeable craftsmen and technicians were here to create the transformation.
A word about regulation in restoration. Villa Maddalena was fortunate to have a geometer, a kind of architect/planner/surveyor, who was creative and has an excellent rapport with the Commune (sub-county) architect. None of the permits took more than a week. The only thing that we wanted that we didn’t get was an in-ground pool. But these are never allowed in private homes in historic districts, unless the house has 10 hectares of land under cultivation and is a certified Agriturismo, which the Villa is not. The style of the limonaia, with its arched doors, the tettoia, the loggia off the Maddalena bedroom, the French doors in the living room and dining rooms, all new features, I credit to the finesse of the geometer Danielle Monachini and Anna Maria Redi. Anna Maria was the estate agent with a keen eye and sense of design working on our behalf during the sale and the negations with the Contrada San Martino and the first half of the restoration work. Her connections with fine local craftsmen and suppliers were invaluable in achieving the end result. Between them we have the lovely home and garden you see. The regulation of renovation in this area has been the safeguard that makes this beauty of the old villages sustainable while allowing changes and new housing. A tough balance. Not always perfect, but for us, for this home, a process that worked well.
The Brandini family, father Giuseppe and sons Claudio and Paulo, were the heart and soul of the Villa. They arrived every day at 7.30 and worked, with only a lunch hour until 5.30. No coffee breaks, no ‘disappearances’. They kept up this pace for months on end; working hard, doing heavy, straining work. Because they have been together since the boys were born they form a unique, by American standards, team. They grew up knowing that they would always be together. Their relationships were not based upon leaving home at 18 and only being together for holidays. It was always a fact that they were together now and would be, working and living, always. This created a wonderful subtext to everything. Their days were laced with geniality, consideration, a deep understanding of each person’s strengths, weaknesses and preferences and tolerances. Each stepped in at the right moment with a hand or a tool. It was almost choreography. Watching them work together was one of the greatest gifts of this entire experience. I learned so much about life, respect, family and tradition from these 3 men. Lessons that I will always treasure. What you see is the result of these wonderful men and the family they are. And the pride they take in their work, throughout the village, they are transforming the past into the future one house at a time.
Everything in the house came from this area. All the craftsmen have their workshops within a few kilometers except Dario, who built the fireplace fronts. His studio is in Asciano. All the furniture came from Arezzo or a shop near Attigliano, 45 minutes south. All the beds are handmade mattresses made in Torrita di Siena. Many of the staples come from Ikea, either in Rome or Florence. The piano was in a barn under a sheet of plastic, and piled with stuff.
The stone in the baths and in the kitchen all came from Buonconvento, a stone yard and shop run by a man and his son who take enormous pride in their art. Thanks to Anna Maria this man worked his magic in almost every room of the house. The iron work all came from a bottega in San Giovanni d’Asso with the central craftsman a native son of Montisi. The doors, windows, shelves and kitchen fittings came from a bottega you can see from the garden, in Castelmuzio. Run by a man and his son, the Perugini have built fine woodwork for this area for 50 years. Even Mrs. Perugini works in the bottega assisting with the hand-rubbed finishes. The heating system was installed largely by the other Brandini, Franco, who lives in Montisi. All of the intricate electircla systems and the sound wiring and the eventual hardwire LAN is due to the attention of Stephano, who lives in Montisi and is the capitano of the Torre Contrada. His wife, Silvia and a couple of other ladies who live in Montisi keep the house tidy and clean.
This house was a labor of love for me and could not have happened with out the talent and good will of all of these people. They have made me and Madelyn feel welcome. They have, I think, finally understood that this is more than a house for us. It is a home which one day will become all of that and more.
Our time at the villa ends tomorrow. Tonight we have a farewell dinner planned. We have all (9 of us) contributed to having a local cook come to prepare a three course Montisi Italian-style dinner.
Our stay here has been relaxing AND full of side trips to neighboring hill towns. Yesterday, we traveled with “Roberto” (from Rick Steve’s videos and www.ToursByRoberto.com). What a gem of a tour! We went to an Etruscan burial site over 2600 years old. They pre-dated the Romans here – and well, everywhere.
Two days before, we had a “walking tour” of
The weather is week has been chilly. We are now very glad to have brought the sweaters and layers of warm clothes we did not need in
That’s it for now.
Ciao for now !!
Will post shortly. Looks like (for some odd reason, today, it will let us — go figure.) We have to go offline, compose, then post it. Hopefully, it will allow us. Ahh, the mercies bestowed upon us by a fricking computer.
Not being able to upload pictures at this time — except one by one and then they are so big it won’t fit on the page. We had to change design of the blog to post - strange but so computer-like (if you know what I mean).
All the pictures you see and have in your memory of the Leaning Tower of Pisa should be discarded. The actual tower is incredibly intricate and beautiful, with detail upon detail everywhere. It is part of at trio of structures in an area called the Plaza of Miracles. You will understand when we post the pictures.
Our visit in Pisa was fun and fast. Getting better at quick packing. Our B&B was located at Marina di Pisa, a 20 min bus ride from town. Very nice, new and spacious accommodations. John liked the room tiles so much he took a picture of each one. Our host, Enrico, reminded me of Dad when he was younger. Enrico also runs his own Gastromiteca (??) - meats, cheeses, bread, wines, desserts - all the good stuff, and those are served for breakfast at the B&B he and his wife run. We were glad to come back to a non-bustling area for the evening and sleep. We have loads of good shots of the leaning tower, cathedral, and campo where grand marble caskets are displayed with beautiful relief craftsmanship. The train system is so efficient and on time.
We have been here in Cinque Terre now for two nights with our room in Manarola. Tonight is our last. The view from our window is spectacular, any time of day. We are at a high point in the town, right next to the church, and stretch our calves each evening on the way up the hill. We are happy we stayed in a small town vs a larger one. Manarola has such charm that is missing in Monterossa, the largest. Monterossa has beach, the only one of the five. Vernazza is also a beauty and we really enjoyed time spent there. We met another Antonio there and have run into him a few times now. He drives the town ambulance for his job. The train in between each town is so fast, so on time, and very appreciated so we need not walk the trail every time we want to visit.
John is uploading more pix now, we haven’t been able to because not all internet places are set up to do so. Also, these keyboards are set up for our language and they are clean - a bonus thus far.
Today is an easy day and then we get all packed up again and off on the train to La Spezia tomorrow. By easy day I mean we are not hiking our legs off ! Yesterday’s hike was really something. Thankfully we stopped at a town in between legs of the hike for a little rest and some water and I think a gelato - our saving grace. It is all so beautiful. The pix definitely do not do justice to many places.
Manarola is sweet and slow, much quieter and doesn’t seem wake up until 9:30AM or so (when the sun climbs up over the hill and hits the town) vs Florence who wakes up and is ready to serve cappucino before 7AM. We so enjoyed Florence and all she has to offer.
Not great luck with phones and my call to Mom the other evening (evening here - morning for her, nine hours difference with their recent switch to daylight savings) was short because John wanted to catch his Mom, too, and we were on our way up our hill and stopped at the only working phone. Could not get through to Helen so will try agan.
We had sun today and yesterday, but yesterday turned chilly quickly and a freak wind storm blasted through the narrow streets of Vernazza forcing everyone and everything not attached to something substantial inside for a few minutes. The town residents were a bit upset by it, that never happens - but not us, we are used to wind ! Then the rains came for a while. At least it was after our big hike. The trail is very steep in many places and the views are spectacular. We made a Xango marketing video along the way ! I hope the pix will be posted soon.
Tonight it’s get packed up and then in the AM the train to La Spezia to pick up the car and drive to Montisi. Not sure how far from the station the car pick up is, that’s the part that’s rarely clear in my literature, how to get to the next place once we’ve landed at one. We are finding our way ! We’re very pleased with our walking shoes and really glad we have two pair so we can switch off. We are counting on nice weather so are planning to take the scenic route to Montisi which is about an hour and a half longer than the other one.
We arrived in Florence yesterday early afternoon after a train ride with so many hilltop villas, rolling green hills and in the distance snow covered peaks. We talked nearly non-stop with a young man, David (named after Michelangelo’s David), from Venezuela. Sounds like we must go ! The three of us were surprised by the time change (one hour later) and found out just in time to catch our train ! We were thinking to walk and were grateful for a taxi that happened to appear just when we needed him (the only taxi ride in Rome) and drove at top speed to get us there. Our platform was very near the station entrance. The ride was so comfortable and roomy. We shared food with our Venezualean companion. He hadn’t had time for breakfast and was hungry.
Our Florence B&B is a short walk from the train station and it is so centrally located we can stop in and get whatever we need so we don’t have to plan our day pack contents. From our unique, flip-down window we have stunning views of the Duomo and tower and all the street activity. Things quiet down at night and we slept well. Our room is spacious, especially compared with ours in Rome - that was approx 12×10.
We love all the giant doors with grand designs.
Yesterday we visited Michelangelo’s David and walked around Florence for several hours with a break for gelato, ofcourse ! I don’t know how the Italian women wear their high heels all day, especially on the cobblestone streets, but they do. With all the shoe and bag displays in the windows a person would need to have a well-paying job to support the habit. The shoes would require the fancy, patterned hose and the fashion needs continue. Today I will get some photos of those display windows since any description cannot do them justice.
We will climb the stairs inside the Duomo this morning, enjoy the view and take more pix. Helpful hint for anyone who travels to Italy: have two pair walking shoes so you can trade off. Our feet are happy.
What a marvel these mammouth structures are! A glorious day in Rome, totally sunny. We head for Florence tomorrow. Waiting for more time to get better journaling. May not happen until Tuscany villa.
We are presently downloading photos (John has just installed Picassa on a pc at an internet caffe in Florence) so they will be included soon.
